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William Palmer

The Breadwinner
United Kingdom 2026

William Palmer playfully critiques British masculinity using humour and satire to subvert rigid, hyper-masculine ideals. Inspired by personal experiences, he reflects on the pressures of financial success and societal expectations on the “breadwinner”, the family member earning the most money. A duffle bag shaped like a loaf of bread humorously embodies this theme, while bite mark motifs represent imperfection in a perfection-driven world. Childhood prank rituals like the “wedgie” - when someone’s underwear gets pulled up tightly between the buttocks - are reimagined through underwear-hoodie hybrids, blending playfulness with adult masculinity. Channeling the cheeky energy of lad culture, the collection questions toxic traits while proposing a more open, vulnerable, and expressive vision of masculinity.

SELECTION MOTIVATION

William has that rare gift of being able to treat sociopolitical topics with grand irony and apparent lightness, an ability that popularises what is complicated in appearance through lightness and clarity of vision. But to have such a rare intellectual ability is one thing, to translate that into perfectly executed garments which speak for themselves the same ironic language, creating coherent looks, is another. Williams’ garments are a feast for the eyes because they powerfully express British masculinity from its most playful yet patriarchal outpost. One of the reasons - the other being beauty - for being selected.

TECHNICAL DESCRIPTION

High-cut hooded body developed by combining three men’s cotton briefs with light blue check patterns; the underwear elastic frames the face. Low-rise indigo denim jeans with an oversized fit, underwear-inspired front fly, and adjustable back strap. The look is completed by the Breadwinner bag — a hand-held loaf-shaped bag with a bite mark detail, inspired by the sculptures of artist Romulo Celdran — and black patent leather lace-up shoes.

PHOTOGALLERY

VIDEOS